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Discussion in 'Unimog Technical' started by pablo435, Aug 18, 2017.

  1. pablo435

    pablo435 New Member

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    Hie everyone. I'm Zimbabwean. I own a u1300l ex-army ambulance.[​IMG]

    Sent from my SM-G530T1 using Tapatalk
     
  2. LHD G

    LHD G Moderator G-Wagen Club SA

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    Hi Pablo , looks like your mog needs some work , is it in a driving condition , welcome here
     
  3. paulventer

    paulventer Active Member

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    Hi Pablo

    Welcome here!

    Interesting - looks like your front axle is a drum brake axle? I wonder if it's a 416 axle transplanted onto the 1300? As far as I know the 1300 mogs only came out with disc brakes.

    When you get a chance - please post the first 6 numbers of the VIN number. Would be interesting to see what version of mog this is.

    Normally the axles also have a plate with the axle code on them (located on the diff). If the plates are still on the axles, please post both front and rear axle codes so we can see what kind of mog the axles came from.

    Cheers
    Paul
     
  4. pablo435

    pablo435 New Member

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    Axles are original. Front hubs are from a 416.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  5. pablo435

    pablo435 New Member

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    Unfortunately after buying it i was told that onyly 16 u1300l ambulances were donated to the zimbabean army by NATO for peacekeeping missions. Absolutely no spares for this model can be found in zim. We call it Frankenmog.

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  6. paulventer

    paulventer Active Member

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    Very interesting!

    Do the brakes work well?

    The 416's have different master cylinders for drum/disc brakes. I believe the drum brake master cylinder has higher volume (or it could be other way around).


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  7. GavinB

    GavinB Member

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    Welcome Pablo

    @Paul.........Different cylinders with roughly the same volume.
    The design of the drum brake cylinder is that it maintains a certain amount of residual pressure in the system even with the brake not applied.
    The disc brake model allows no residual pressure. (This is also stated in your data book)

    The below also links to your thread re: oil migration from hubs into axle housing.
    You may remember me having huge issues with heat build-up in the front wheel stations and subsequent oil loss at hubs. Temps were in excess of 100% at times.
    I had a drum brake master cyl (Cheaper that disc model) fitted but subsequently overhauled the disc brake cylinder and refitted it.
    Result: less heat at wheel stations and brake squeal gone.
    I put all my troubles down to residual pressure in the system. I actually verified this with brake pressure gauges fitted at master cylinder outlets. After releasing the brake pedal the pressure gauges would not return to 0 Bar..they always
    showed slight pressure until I opened the bleeding nipples.

    Lessons learned!

    Just gotta sort a list of other issues out now. Engine poked, first gear synchros, difflock seals.......

    Cheers
    Gavin
     
  8. paulventer

    paulventer Active Member

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    Thanks Gavin - very informative! I never knew the details of what the difference between disc/drum master cylinders was.

    Glad your brake issues are sorted. Sorry to hear about your engine - is it the result of that knocking sound that's been bugging you for a while?
     
  9. GavinB

    GavinB Member

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    Yeah.....story of my life.

    When I bought the vehicle I heard that the engine was noisier than it should be. Being an ex-buffel it obviously stood without a tappet cover fitted for some time. This I knew because of all the sand found in the ports etc under the tappet cover. I was at that stage happy to take a chance even though I suspected engine trouble. Ive been using it for a while now and is still noisy and is using oil ..... about 1-1.5 L for every 40L of fuel!!!:eek: That's 2.5 time the max allowed!
    I decided to check the filter for debris.....this was clearly the wrong thing to do! Photos of filter shows why. They also show the liners as well as crud from the filter
    From what I now see it also got water in the cylinders and all shows corrosion and excessive wear from dust ingress on all sleeves. Bearings also damaged by grit/dirt.

    Quite a mission to remove engine without removing cab....not for the feint hearted!
    As a bonus I also get to remove the Tranny to sort out 1st gears synchro which has been bugging me.

    The joys of Unimog ownership. Still love it though.

    I hope this photo pasting business of mine works!

    Gavin


    No grill.jpg !st Syncro.jpg oil filter.jpg Crud from filter.jpg Sleeve1.jpg sleeve2.jpg sleeve3.jpg
     

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